Monitoring Ocean Wave Behavior Using a Stereo Camera Scheme - It's Not Just About Surfing

It's time we started paying more attention to Earth's Oceans, as humankind has not been the ideal stewards of that which covers two-thirds of the surface of this pale blue dot. Today, we have more tools than ever before to monitor our global oceans, and that's a good thing. We have satellites, UAVs, special research ships, and some decent funding too, as well we should. Speaking of research there has been great progress.

In fact, there was an interesting article not long ago on the Physorg (dot) com Website titled "Surf's Up: New Research Provides Precise Way to Monitor Ocean Wave Behavior, Shore Impacts" which was posted on January 28, 2011. The article states;

"Video of ocean waves from two different cameras are being used in new technology to create a "stereo vision" analysis of the surf zone. (Image courtesy of Oregon State University)" and in the first paragraph says; "Engineers are now provided with a better way to understand and monitor this violent, ever-changing environment."

Okay so, this is just wonderful if you are indeed studying coastal zones, erosion, urban run-off re-distribution, pollution contamination, ocean dead zones, or where and how strong you should build a pier, breakwater, or barrier to structures on the shore line - yet, this technology has far more applications than I believe the scientists, researchers, and engineers are giving credit for. Now then, let's talk about a few applications;

1. Harbor Mouth Design
2. Ocean Wave Energy Infrastructure Location and Planning
3. Surfing Areas for Tourism and Recreation
4. Military Beach Head Landing Operations and Training
5. Boating Safety
6. Life Guard Placement
7. Best Fishing Locations

Any time you change a harbor mouth, modify the outflows from a large river to a delta region, or try to create a navigational water way to the sea - you risk altering the landscape in a way which is unhealthy to sea life, and might disrupt the ecological balance. No, I am not an environmentalist by any means, mostly I am anti-environmentalism, only because I've watched the damage of activists in this arena. Nevertheless, real environmental issue due exist.

If such waterways are not done properly, future dredging will cost bundles, and each time cause more challenges to the eco-system there. Likewise when planning for tourism, infrastructure, all of this matters. As a former surfer in my younger days watching and timing waves was paramount to my personal enjoyment, well now "There is an App for that" I am certain, or there will be sometime soon. So, please consider all this.

View the original article here

How Waves Are Created in the Ocean

You are sitting on the sand, just gazing at the beautiful horizon and thinking to yourself how waves are created in the ocean. This is a mystery to many individuals although if you know your science well, you know exactly how they are made. Waves begin with wind. There are strong offshore storms which gather enough wind to blow on the sea. This starts the process of surface disturbance, or what we would call waves. Smaller waves can add to the wave generation. Also, you need to take into mind the strength of the wind gust because this ties directly in with the size of the wave. On most weather maps, you will see isobars that are so close together, indicating stronger winds. The smaller waves are usually generated facing the area in which the wind is blowing.

A flat Sea Surface

It begins with a flat sea surface. Depending upon how long the wind blows on the flat sea surface, it will have a stronger effect on the ripples. Also, if the wind is stronger, these ripples may reach even bigger sizes. If you look out in the sea, the waves may seem like small lumps but with velocity, they will grow larger.

Wind Creating a Larger Swell

The power of the wind is strong and any waves being blown upon is under the direct power of the wind. This simply means that it is a domino effect. Smaller waves will push others along. The wind can easily catch the small waves easier than with a flat surface, because they protrude closer to the sky. The actually size of the wave obviously depends on the speed of the wind. While a wind speed which isn't as powerful begins pushing the waves, it won't be enough to create a monster wave.

Most waves that are created will have their own speeds and life periods. For example, the waves which last longer and are quicker will move in front of the slow waves. As the waves travel away from the very source of the wind, they will start to gather into something called "swell lines". Some can be tightly packed together and in case you notice this, be cautious when surfing in the area. You could also wait until the sea is calm.

A wave that cannot be harnessed by the wind any longer, is often called a "ground swell". Usually, what affects the size of the swell depends on a number of factors such as the speed of the wind, lifespan of the wind cycle, and the spacing in between the waves.

View the original article here